Tuesday, December 26, 2017

El Bolsón, Argentina, December 26, 2017

This morning, rather than wait for the bus and go all the way to KM 13.5 to meet the group, I walked about a mile and met them lakeside at KM4-


 We only had 130 km to go to reach El Bolsón, population 17,000.  Along the way-





The feria artesanal market was on in Central Park.  There was a lot of the usual - silver jewelry, cotton thread bracelets, essential oils, candles and incense but there were other more interesting booths too such as these maté straws called bombilla.  The strainer keeps the tea leaves out of the sip.  They're made of wood and/or silver-  


One in a maté cup-


Home made instruments-


Knives-


Cheese-


Guitars and ukuleles-


The most awesome hand painted t-shirts for kids-


Dream catchers-


Bowls made from gourds-


Gnome like dolls-


And dried flower arrangements-


For lunch, Weibke and I found the best - bife de chorizo which is a nice filet, perfectly cooked with either fries or salad and a chimichurra sauce and salsa dip for $17.  As a starter, we had baguette pieces with a carrot, garlic, milk pâté.  I'm going to start making that once I'm home again-


On our way home, we stopped in at the Otto Tipp micro brewery but were too full from lunch to try any.  Maybe tomorrow-


We're spending 2 nights in a grassy, lovely campground!

Monday, December 25, 2017

Bariloche, Argentina, December 25, 2017

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!!  I hope everyone has had a great day!  Christmas when you're travelling like this is not the same as when at home.  As a kid, we spent Christmas Day at my Grandpa and Grandma Madsen's house which was only 1.5 miles from my house.  My Uncles Ross and Junior would hook up the horse and sleigh and take us for rides.  We'd play hockey on the slough in the front yard, ride skidoos and build snow forts.  Most of my cousins lived close by: Gary, Leanne, Deborah, Wanda, Kim, Trent, Shawn, Shannon and April, Janelle, Alyssa, Chris, Stephanie and Heather, but the Lees lived in Winnipeg: Doug, David, Kristin and Tim always came for the holidays - Easter, Christmas and summer.  We crowded into the living room to open presents and we played games like Clue at the kitchen table.  There were 34 of us and it was sooo fun.  Since then, as we've grown up, moved away and had our own kids, we spent Christmas in Redvers with my parents.  Lionel would pick me up directly from the Comp with the kids in the car and we'd be off!  The car would be loaded with gifts.  Mom and Dad always decorated their house with all kinds of tinsel and often Carolyn and Dean and their families came too.  As our kids got older and busier, it wasn't always easy to go to Redvers or get together.  Our last Christmas as a family was spent in Pincher Creek at Dean and Tammy's.  Nico was sick and I think it was really sad for everyone but me because I didn't think he was going to die.  We took a lot of pictures and it was a fun time-


Nico used to help me decorate the tree.  No one else was really interested and I think he just felt sorry for me.  The first 3 years after he died, we didn't have a tree and Christmas didn't seem the same.  The last 4 years I've been travelling and in Asia and Africa, Christmas isn't that big of a deal, or at least it isn't as commercialized as it is at home.  Last year I was lucky to spend it with the Minish family and now this year, well, I'm missing home.  That's interesting for me and a good thing.  I've facetimed everybody and shudder at the thought of the cold: - minus 39 this morning!  Maybe in a couple of years, I'll be home for Christmas!

After a leisurely morning, I went to Cerro Campanario.  Luckily, the B and B owner just happened to be leaving when I was so he gave me a ride to Kilometer 9.  I was going to KM 17 so started walking in between bus stops.  I was pretty proud of myself when some 'tourists' stopped to ask for directions and I could help them - in Spanish too!  A bus went by while I was between stops and even with all my waving, he wouldn't stop.  Asshole.  Eventually I stopped and waited, and waited and waited at a bus stop.  30 minutes later #20 showed up and away I went.  

Cerro Campanario is 1049 meters and I hiked it!  It's a narrow, pretty steep and dusty path-


It took about 22 minutes and I was sweating at the top-


I probably would have taken the chair lift-


but it was closed.  A good thing I guess because the walk didn't hurt me.  At the top there's a restaurant so I tried a beer brewed just down the road-


A woman passed me on the trail and we ended up spending an hour visiting, then caught the bus back.  Luca is German but married to an Argentinian.  They spend 3 months in Bariloche and the rest of the time in Düsseldorf.  She's a culture coach which means she teaches business people about the new culture they're going to work in.  I'd like to do that!

More views-


Roses are beautiful, everywhere and bloom a few times/year-


I made it to the campsite at 5:10 just in time for Christmas supper:  rare roast beef! sausage, chicken, lettuce salad, quinoa salad, champagne and wine!  My secret Santa got me a bottle of vino tinto - thank you!  

Walking home I tried hitchhiking again and finally this time a woman picked me up.  She's a prof at the university and was only going a couple km down the road which was fine.  It got me out of the rain for a few minutes-


I ended up walking the last couple of km home.  It's funny because the address system they use is based on kilometres.  There are 2 main roads that run parallel and they're marked off by kilometers.  I am staying at 4095 Sarmiento Superior which means I'm at the 4 km point.  Unfortunately the kilometers aren't really kilometers.  I walked for 50 minutes and only went 1.5 km!  

I returned to Los Miralejos for my last night.  I'll meet the truck down the road tomorrow at 10 as we make our way to El Bolson.



Sunday, December 24, 2017

Bariloche, Argentina, December 24, 2017

Merry Christmas Eve!  I spent the morning lounging in my room - I so love doing that: reading, interneting, emailing....  

Finally at noon I forced myself to go to Colonia Suiza, a small town with craft shops and eateries.  I had to walk quite a distance to catch the first bus.  I haven't bought a tarjeta - a card required to pay for the ride.  I just ask people to tap their card for me and then I give them cash.  It's kind of a pain but so far I've had good luck.  I had to switch buses but finally got there and thought.... WTF.  I am truly amazed at the marketing skills of some places.  

Colonia Suiza is a one gravel street place-


with a brewery - I didn't see it until I was on the bus on my way out, a dozen craft shops all selling the same shit you can buy anywhere, a few more expensive restaurants where you'd pay $15-20 for lunch-


 a couple craft beer booths-


A torte booth-


and a few booths of cheap food: empanadas, pizza, hamburgers, sandwiches and papas fritas-


The best part of the trip was the way home driving by Lago P. Moreno Oeste-




Bariloche is in full rose bloom.  They are everywhere-


This is my last night in heaven - I'll go back to the campground tomorrow for a 5 pm Christmas supper.  Might go to Cerro Campanario tomorrow - I said might!  The chairlift will probably be closed and you know what I think about hiking so.......



Saturday, December 23, 2017

Bariloche, Argentina, December 23, 2017

I had a great night at La Miralejos B and B.  Breakfast wasn't anything special - thank God I have my own coffee.  How can these people drink this stuff?  I decided to go to the city centre because it's such a warm and sunny day with hardly a cloud in the sky.  It's the exact opposite from yesterday and I almost considered going back to the campground for the night but there's nowhere to be there.  Options are my tent - lying down, in the truck where I already spend enough time or in a dingy chalet type place with no tv, no wifi, no fuck all.  I could wander around the campsite for about 15 seconds and then what?  So, I'm staying at La Miralejos for 2 more nights!  Lucky me-


 I've moved rooms from a two twin bed place to a one twin bed place-


which is cheaper and besides I unfortunately don't have anyone to sleep in the other bed :)

Downtown is nothing special.  I am awed by the ability of places to sell themselves as the next best thing when really, they are no different than the last town we drove through.

City hall looks like a church and is well decked out for Navidad-


The town square has a Santa-


And Saint Bernards mimicking life in Switzerland-


I checked out a local craft market: yuck but if I were an elementary teacher, this is what my kids would make for a Christmas craft-


It's a large upside down pine corn with fuzzy balls glued on to the protruding leaves or whatever they're called.  It looks awesome.  Then, it's glued to a thin piece of tree.

Apparently if one Iikes expensive chocolate, this is the place to be.  Not only is it available in small bite sized pieces-


but you can also get cell phones and cameras-


animals-


teddy bears-


shoes-


santas-


A Patagonia assortment pack-


And even nativity scenes -  all in chocolate-


They also sell liqueur: chocolate, limoncello, ginger and calafate-


For lunch, I finally found an awesome Parilla (steak house)-


Yes, this is how it came, with nothing extra for $28.  I didn't mind that, I mean it's more at The Keg and I was very happy when it was cooked properly and very tender, although it wasn't as good as a K/X steak!  Three times my fork slid off my plate and hit the floor.  Waiters literally jumped to get me a new one so I guess they're used to it.  I think the plates are shaped funny.  Crazy.  I could have ordered sides like fries and or a salad, but they cost $8 each and were enough to feed a family of 4.  I guess that's why most people go in groups and why most beer comes in 1 litre sizes - it's meant to be shared.  Not only was the steak excellent but with the bread they brought chimichurra - OMG  I will be making this at home-


After lunch, I came back to my hotel to sit on the deck-


This is probably it for the day...a little vino tinto y sol... Comó puedo querer mas?

P.S.  Nico talking to Santa-





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