Day 5 Vila Nova de Anha to Ancora, Portugal

OMG!  It was a 23 km walk today and I thought I was going to die. We’ve been doing anywhere from 18 to 20 K per day but today required a bit longer trek. It would’ve been OK but my right hip started to hurt so I adjusted my gait, then my right thigh started to hurt and I got the odd pain in my groin. I was afraid I was going to fall because my leg would give out once in a while. Then my right buttock started to hurt and then my left hip. Nothing happened at the same time thank goodness, but I was worried that I was falling apart.  Mirjanne gave me some special cream and in less than a minute my right hip was no longer sore!  Too bad she doesn’t have enough so I can spread it all over my body!

We were on the road by 7:36 because the hostel has a motion light that is set to come on at 6 AM so once we were awake, we thought we may as well get going.  Our first stop was Viana do Castelo-

We had to cross a bridge designed by Gustav Eiffel, but unfortunately, there were trees in the way and I couldn’t get a picture of the actual bridge-

Of course, there were many churches along the way-

but the best one was the Capela de Nossa Senhora da Agonia which is an 18th century late Baroque Church. It was beautiful, and there were women reciting what sounded like the Lord‘s prayer over and over and over-

There were lots of old buildings in the historic part of Viana do Costelo –

We were walking towards the Coastal route which for the most part runs along the coast- 

We came upon Vinha Fort which was built at the end of the Portuguese Restoration War (1640-1668) to stop the frequent Algerian and Salentino pirate raids on the Portuguese coast –

We walked on boardwalks and gravel roads for about 10 km–

Windmills-

A young boy was selling starfish for one Euro each-

We left the coast and headed across a village –

then started our ascent.  Murals depicting the area-

Along the way there are lots of beautiful plants-

An entrance to a private home –

A picture on a private home depicting people burning in hell –

We climbed on stone paths-

and through the forest always going up and up-

We came to a beautiful garden restaurant-

The man is from Germany and he had a couple weeks holiday so he decided to try walking the Camino. His feet are killing him, but he has a good sense of humor. The woman is also from Germany.

These buildings appear to have straw or grass roofs -

Vineyards-

This guy thinks we’re crazy –

Finally, we could see Ancora-

We are staying at Vivenda Atlantico-

All the restaurants are closed on Sundays so we went to the grocery store and bought food for supper and breakfast tomorrow-

Tomorrow we will walk to Caminha which is about 11 km away, then cross the Minho River, which takes about 15 minutes and then head to A Guarda, Spain where we will spend the night. It will be a much shorter walking day and I am very much looking forward to that!  

Esposende to Vila Nova de Anha, Portugal

 September 26, 2026

Last night I decided to play princess.  We put the mattress from the top bunk on top of mine- 

I had an ok sleep, hopefully better than it would have been with only one mattress but I was ready for the day when the alarm rang at 7.

I’ve been setting the same intention since the walk began.  Please help me get to my destination without falling apart!  So far it is working.  I’m feeling good, my feet aren’t a problem, my backpack isn’t too heavy and I haven’t said “I hate walking” once!  Apparently tomorrow will be our longest day so far at 23 km.  I think I can, I think I can, Hopefully tomorrow night I will be saying “I knew I could!”

Just before we were leaving this morning we found a note under our door.  We have been running into and visiting with twins - Shannon and Kristin from New York, the potters that gave us a pottery shell.  We may not see them again-

Our route today-

We left before 8 and started out on the Oceanside boardwalk where we saw the search and rescue building-

We were not the first pilgrims this morning-

Along the way-

And Saskatoon thinks their art is a mess-

The sign-

Forte de São João Bautista de Esposende is a 17th century coastal defense fort-

Plants along the way-

The first stamp booth on this Camino.  We saw lots on the French-

The Parish Church of São Miguel das Martinhas’s origins date back to the 11th century-

We have a ways to go-

We stopped at the Café O Lampião.  It’s a quirky bar filled with memorabilia.  The owner brought us peanuts, cookies, honey and jam to enjoy as a snack-

Sometimes we walk on paving stones-

Sometimes on rocks-

Sometimes through tunnels-

and sometimes on sand-

Crossing the Ponte do Sebastião which was built in 1930, the same year my Dad was born-

São Romão de Neiva is an 11th century church originally part of the Benedictine monastery-

Celebrating harvest!  I saw a combine in the corn patch yesterday.  The fields are so small, they would be amazed if they visited Saskatchewan-

There have been a lot of Camino markers -

Another pilgrim-

Getting a stamp-

We are staying at the Albergue Casa da Carolina.  It’s awesome-

Tomorrow we are walking to Ancoro.  It will be a shorter day!

I’ve been thinking about how lucky I am.  Mirjanne and I met 4 years ago on the French Camino.  We get along as if we have been friends for life and see each other daily.  She is organized - figuring out our route and our stops, buying supper - vegetarian! - I get the wine! We get along so well, never disagree and I am so lucky to have a friend and travel companion like her!

Looking forward to tomorrow!